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Note how the layout of the “silver” tracks are almost identical in both images, yet the black (IC) block and the tiny wires are different (right). On the left a 5050 RGB LED, on the right a WS2812 which combines a 5050 RGB LED with a WS2811 controller. In the illustration below you’ll see the difference:

Table swipe delete flickery swift driver#

The 5050 LED is a very common 3 LED (Red, Green, Blue) package, in one 5mm x 5mm case.Ī WS2812 is the same package but with an additional WS2811 LED driver IC on board. The WS2812 however is a WS2811 placed inside a 5050 LED package. The WS2801 used to be quite popular but the WS2812/WS2811 appears to be taking over the reigns. Positioned close together, so you as a viewer will see the mixed color result. These IC’s can control up to 3 LEDs, typically Red, Green and Blue. The WS2801 and WS2811 are LED driver IC’s ( Integrated Circuits). The model numbers WS2801, WS2811 and WS2812 actually refer to different “things”. Most projects and descriptions out there discus these sometimes mixed, and for one who dives into LED strips for the first time, these models numbers might be confusing. It doesn’t have to be “break your bank” expensive, just make sure it’s of a high-quality grade.įollowing these few things should help you prolong or outright prevent potential port rot on your tablet or any other mobile device.Difference between WS2801, WS2811 and WS2812īefore we start, we should probably identify the differences between the WS2801, WS2811 and WS2812 based strips (also called “strands”). Replace the cable that came with the charger, with a higher quality cable.When the battery gets low, stop using it, charge it, and go do something else in the meantime. Avoid charging your Kindle Fire while it’s in use.

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Ensure that you keep the port free of dust and debris as this can clog it up and cause it to stop working.

Over time, the mechanical stress placed on the glue or solder holding the port on the circuit board inside the machine will cause the connection to fail and the port to become loose. Unfortunately, for heavy users, port rot can be a very real issue.Įvery time the charging cable is inserted and removed, the risk of port rot is increased.

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These are the users who turn the machine on once a week to watch a movie and then put it away again. Light tablet users shouldn’t need these tips. You can use a screwdriver if you’re okay with a large number of scratches and chips in the body of the device. To open up your Kindle Fire will require a prying tool, or a spudger. If you’re okay with this, you can find a bunch of Amazon sellers that will provide you with a replacement battery for the Kindle Fire.īefore you purchase, you’ll want to have the part number for the battery you’re using, which can be found online in your Kindle Fire specs or printed on the battery itself after you’ve opened it up. The DIY Approachįrom this point on you should understand that by opening up your Amazon Fire, any warranty you had will become null and void. That leaves two options – send it back to Amazon and trade it in for a new one, or just do it yourself via a third-party seller. Your Amazon Fire is fine but the battery has died and requires a replacement. Amazon also highly discourages battery replacements but if you’re okay with it, you can do it yourself. This is a major problem as replacing the battery will cost you practically the same as a brand new Amazon Fire. Have all of the above steps failed you? Then the problem most certainly falls on your battery.

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Allow the update to finish the installation, and reboot your Fire.

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Release the Power button but maintain your hold on the Volume Up button until Installing the latest software appears on the screen.Press and hold the Volume Up button and Power button for 40 seconds.Swipe down on the home screen to access the menu.While your Fire is working, save all data.This will wipe everything you have loaded onto your tablet and return it to its default configuration without a guarantee of resolving the issue. Just know that this should only be performed so long as the other methods have failed to produce positive results. Still no charge? A factory reset could help you. Hold down the power button for 40 seconds to ensure that the Fire is fully powered down.

This will shut down all currently open apps and tabs in order to start fresh. We can attempt a forced reset to see if that does the trick. Found no fault in the hardware? The problem could be with the software.